Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Oh, the insanity!

Sorry that I have been really slacking lately with keeping the blog updated, but things here have been crazy busy.

Green Camps are at the final stage of the grant writing process, and let's all keep our fingers crossed that we receive one of the 3 grants that we are applying for. We have the basic write up and budget for the Green Camps (well..Environmental Leadership Camps now) done, and have a few days now to tailor it to the individual grants that we are working on. I am very excited for it though, we have made some big changes to the program, which will hopefully make the camp not only more attractive to funders, but also more sustainable and impactful (not quite a word, but you get the picture). In past years, the camps have been all about the environment, which is cool, but there was not training on how to take that knowledge and use it. This year, we are adding elements of team-building and Leadership skills to the camps, and along with completing a environmentally based service project during each of the 5 camps, we will also be selecting 16 student leaders to plan larger scale projects in their areas. The NGO we are working with, Green Tavush, is awesome..and I am very excited to see how all the changes work out in the long run.

I also just found out that I was selected to be a leader at this years GLOW camp!!!! Very exciting stuff. It is a camp for young Armenian girls, where they learn about gender-related issues, self-esteem, and other topics. A program like that is very important here, where the males are entirely doted on, and gender roles reflect that of the states in the 50s. I am so stoked for the camp this year, and will be diligently working on my Armenian until then, since all of the courses are taught in Armenian.

This weekend is the first weekend that I will stay in Dilijan. Between Green Camp (oops...Environmental Leadership Camps) meetings and getting together with other volunteers, I have not had a weekend home in 5 weeks now. Insane. Come to think of it, I have a meeting in Ijevan this Sunday too. Honestly.

Next weekend is Easter in Gyumri! Holidays here (even little one's, like St. Patrick's Day) are harder then the rest, and I am happy that some of us are going to get together for Easter, one of my favorites. I was away for Easter last year too, and that sucked. At least this year there is a rumor of an Easter egg hunt (no worries Mem and Gramp, it will not ever beat out yours!) and I will even get to go to the Catholic Church there.

Speaking of Easter, I have a few cool things that Armenians do for the holiday. They have dried wheat, and make some type of dish with it, just for Easter. Armenians paint eggs as well, but then they knock the ends of two eggs together, and whoevers egg holds up without cracking wins. Wins what? I don't know, but I am sure I will be able to tell you next week. I am sure I will have more for you after that day. I am sad that I will not be experiencing it with my family, but I really want some PCV time.

Well, it is late and I am tired, so off to bed for me. OH! Before I go I want to tell you about the pretty great classes that I have had lately. Since March 22nd was World Water Day, the focus of the Ecology lessons happening with Sunchild this week is WATER. My second favorite topic, behind the ocean. I had a talk with my director, and now the guy that I teach with is actually staying for my 'games', which I am pretty sure he enjoys. Yesterday, we did a oil-spill clean up activity. I split the kids into groups and gave each group a bowl of water, a thread (boom), some cotton, and a spoon. I then dumped a cup of vegetable oil in their bowls (little Sevans, is what I called them) and told them they had 10 minutes to clean it up. It went REALLY well...even the other teacher was getting into it (plus, he could tell where I was going and picked up the explanations when my Armenian stumbled). It was great, actually held the kid's attention for at least 30 minutes (what can I say, if they are into it, I am going to stretch it for all its worth, limits be damned!) and they seemed to get the message. It is easier to stop an oil spill before it happens, then to clean up after it. Today's activity was along the same lines, except for there was 3 bowls of water. One with scraps of paper mixed in, one with dirt, and one with vinegar. The kids (without tasting or smelling) had to vote on which they would rather drink. Obviously, since they didn't know about the vinegar, they picked that one, and then I had one girl smell it. They quickly changed their minds. I then gave them 5 minutes to clean the water using spoons and 'filters' (an old shirt stretched over a bowl) and when all was said and done, we talked about how not all water looks polluted, and how sometimes the most dangerous pollutants (chemicals, etc) cannot be seen or cleaned.

The English classes are also going fairly well. I told Sunchild that I will no longer teach English by myself. Not only is it taking a paying job from a HCN (host country national) but it is also not controlled enough. I average about 20 kids per class, and that is too much for me and my Armenian. They are working on it, and ideas of co-teachers have been kicked around, so hopefully I will have someone in that classroom with me soon enough!

The 2nd school English classes are also going well. I love the 4th form kids (you can see pics on Facebook!) because they are so adorable and willing to listen. It also helps that there are only 8 or so of them in the class. The 5th and 7th forms are coming along. I still cannot control either class by myself. But they associate me with games now, and will usually settle down after 5 or so minutes. I played a great game with the 7th form on yesterday about animals. I wrote a list of animals on the board (and on post its) and then wrote a list of physical features (stripes, eyes, fur, mane, tail, beak, etc)..the kids wrote down the words and translated them all. Then, I called the kids up one by one and put a post it on their back. Their class mates then had to describe the animal (in English) using the traits and other words they knew until the person was able to guess what they were. It went really well. I successfully had every SINGLE of the 22 kids up to participate, and by the end even the so-called 'stupid' kids were yelling out words. I am seeing a difference in at least one of the teachers I work with. She has begun to call on those 'stupid' kids, and is giving them the chance to participate along with the rest of the class. Yay!


Well..I am sleepy, and have successfully put off more grant work until tomorrow, when I will for SURE buckle down and get it done.

Miss you all!

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

My First Harsanik!

First of all, a Harsanik is a wedding. Hars is the word for Daughter-in-Law, FYI. It was a great time, a very long, and a very great time. The whole day started at noon, when a random relative picked me up and brought me to the bride's families house. My school director's sister was getting married. I get to the house and there are at least 15 women (from the brides side) there getting dressed and ready to go. I honestly couldn't tell who the bride was (no white dress yet, and I had only met the woman once!). About an hour later, there was tons of excitement, and everyone started looking out the windows...the groom's side had arrived. And oh boy, did they make an entrance! There were 5 or 10 cars, all decorated, and a 3 piece band (accordion, clarinet, and drum) played happy, traditional music as they literally danced the bride's dress into the house. Literally..It was a big white poof in a large basket, and everyone danced and sang as they walked it into the house. The men stayed downstairs, presumably drinking and toasting, while all of the women (at least 50) went upstairs to where the bride was eagerly waiting. In Armenia, there is a Godmother and Godfather of the wedding, another married couple. I have no idea what the role of the Godfather is, but the Godmother helped the bride get dressed. All of the women crowded into the bride's room, and the overflow packed close to the door in the hallway. After the bride was all dressed in white..a few things happened. First, they handed out loaves of bread to all of the unmarried women (me included) there. Apparently, if I sleep with that bread under my pillow, I will see my future husband! Next, it was time for the bride to put on her veil..a very big deal. First, she brushed the veil over all of the unmarried women's heads (for luck, I think?) and then it was circled around her head three times before being secured. Then, they dumped (well, a bit more gracefully then 'dumped') candy and rose petals over her newly secured veil.

After, all of the women dance in the hallway, with their bread or otherwise, and eventually the groom comes upstairs to claim his bride. All goes well until he reaches the door of the house, and that is when the bride's brother shoves a sword in the door jamb in front of the groom's face. Yes, I typed that right, but it was not an act of violence, all the groom had to do was pay a 'bribe' to take the bride away. After, to more music, everyone danced out the doors and to the unbelievably long line of cars (at least 20) waiting to take everyone to the church.

The church ceremony was actually the low point of the day. By the way, it was already 3 when we arrived there. We get to the monastery/church and the priest is there waiting. We all go into a small room with an alter (which, by the way, had no benches, or heating ::brr::) and crowded around the bride and groom. The ceremony itself was boring, partly since I had no idea what was going on..but then again, the other people (groom included) looked bored too. At one point, the priest even stepped away to answer his phone! One interesting part of the ceremony was that they touched forehead for a pretty long time. Long time to the point that the bride and groom were laughing at the ridiculousness of the situation..it was hilarious to watch them giggle, trying to hold in the laughter during what I think was supposed to be a pretty solemn part of the ceremony. After, the priest broke out some crowns with religious pictures on them..the bride and groom wore them for about a minute, and then they were removed never to be seen again. Oh, and there was no 'now you may kiss the bride' part either, it was just kind of over and people gave them hugs and stuff, took pictures, before we got back into the caravan of cars.

This time, as we drove back to town though, horns were honking like crazy. At the local rotary, all of the other cars stopped, and let the caravan circle around 6 or 7 times, honking their horns the entire time.

Soon enough, we arrived at the groom's house. Well, I guess it is technically his parents house. In Armenia, in the case of women, you live with your parents until you are married, end of story. If you don't get married, you just live in the house forever..eventually with your brother's and their wives. If you are a man, you live in the house forever as the only or youngest son. If you are an older son, you generally move out on your own when the next youngest brother gets hitched. Anyway..we arrive at the house (well, it was an apartment) and the 3 piece band is still around playing music and everyone is dancing and happy. The mother-of-the-groom comes out and performs a bit of a ceremony. She drapes pieces of lavash (the flat bread here, their life, really) over each of their shoulders..then spoon feeds them some honey mixture, and later throws money and candies into the air. More dancing follows as the bride and groom make their way into the house, breaking two plates as they walk in the door for the first time as husband and wife.

It is around 5 pm now, and the next part of the tradition I am not so positive about. We get into the house and there is a full spread out on the table, complete with alcohol and shot glasses. The men start toasting, but no one eats. A bit later, all of the women go with the new bride into a separate room and start taking pictures with her. I assume the men are still downstairs drinking. That is all that happens for about an hour. Pictures with the bride. Then, it is back into the cars (after a brief dance party outside, where all of the neighbors have gathered) and we head to the reception.

The reception happens at a hall. A big hall. With 15 tables set for 20 people each. There is a banquet on each table. Bottles of cognac, wine, and vodka set a few feet apart on each table. There is horavats, pastries, salads, tons and tons of food. Everyone sits down, and we wait for the bride and groom to enter. There is more dancing when they do, and shouts and cheers, and then it is time to eat. And you eat. Especially if you are an American sitting with people who don't really know you. They stack food on your plates. All night long. They also pour you copious amounts of the alcohol of your choice (mine: cognac) and toasting runs rampant the entire night. The toasting and the eating are interspersed with various dances: one for gifts of jewelery, danced up to the bride; another where the bride and groom dance, and guest plays $100 bills (yes, dollars) in their hands; and yet another for 'other' gifts. At one point, the bride and groom go around and clink glasses with every, yes every one of the 300+ guests that are there. The parents do the same. After everyone is full beyond belief, dancing becomes a continuous thing. People take breaks, of course, to rest their feet or to drink. Well, mostly just to drink. A few hours in, a second course of fish is brought out, and I should mention that the whole time, waiters are walking around replacing empty bottles : ). Around 11:30 pm, the cake is cut! They do the whole smearing cake in each others faces deal, and then the best man shakes and opens a bottle of champagne, spraying EVERYONE. Oh, I should also mention that the best man carried around a sword the entire time. I never saw him without it. It was not the plain sword that the brother used to collect the bride, but a very decorated, elaborate sword. Two apples were speared on the top (one stuck with toothpicks) and the whole thing was wrapped in red ribbon, with candy randomly glued on. Later, the bride throws the bouquet (and the short, crazy American to the surprise of all people present rebuffs attempts to be placed up front) and later the groom throws his corsage. No garter here, that would be SOOO amot (shameful).

This dears, around midnight, is where my firsthand descriptions of an authentic Armenian harsanik ends. I gave up. 11 hours in I climbed into a van (after convincing drunk men that I had enough Armenian to direct the driver to my house) and went home to take of my shoes and go to bed. I found out that the party went on for another 2 hours. You should never complain that a wedding is too long ever again!

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

ay kez ban...

Oh my friends, today has been quite a day. It all started out well enough, my 7th form class went well enough. I was late, and when I walked into the room all the kids stood up and said their rhyme that they say every day to the teacher. It goes like this, "Good Morning, Good Morning, Good Morning to you...Good Morning, Good Morning, I am glad to see you", I am more OK with the poem then I am with the other widely spread "Good morning teacher" and "Good Morning Students" as a response. I really do need to break them of the whole standing up thing though, it is a little over the top for me. Anyway, back on topic, we were learning opposites today, and I did a few exercises with the kids on the board. Unfortunately, the teacher I work with still jumps in and calls kids up to answer, when I really want other kids that don't get any attention to have a shot. At one point we both called someone up, and the teacher proceaded to tell me that the person I chose 'could not write'. I called her up for the next one, and I think she understood what was said, because she had no hesitation writing the correct, flawless answer up on the board. I was proud.

Walked down to the post office after school. I had 3 letters from Mem (THANK YOU!!!) and a Christmas card from my aunt. It was nice!! I love getting letters, and it was warm today, so the walk was extra enjoyable.

After a quick lunch I went to the Art School. I had a few minutes, so I checked my email and had a slightly unpleasant email. My organization had some pretty unrealistic expectations, and I ended up on the phone with my Program Manager for quite some time. It is a good thing I love the kids here, because man, the adults are frustrating!

My English class with the Sunchild kids did not go down so well either, they were all hyper from the holiday yesterday, and after wishing me a happy March 8th a million times (It was International Woman's Day) they just couldn't settle down. After it took them 30 minutes to prepare a simple dialogue, I invited groups up to present theirs and couldn't get the group to stop chit chatting and listen. After 10 minutes standing there waiting for them to be quiet, I calmly explained to them that I already know English, and didn't need to be there. Then I sent them home and told them to come tomorrow ready to work, and that we would be staying until five. Oh, the joys of children.

Jacob, I probably won't put up another blog before your birthday, so here it is a little bit early......HAPPY BIRTHDAY! I love you, miss you, and hope you have a fun day!



Also, anyone with extra boxes of Puffs Plus with Lotion, please donate them to the 'Katie has had a cold for months and it just plain refuses to go away' fund. Thanks!

Monday, March 1, 2010

Welcome Spring!

Well, today is March 1st, and in Armenia, that is the official first day of Spring. Ironically, of course, it is the coldest day we have had here in weeks, but oh well, this is Armenia! I am sitting here by my wood stove again, after weeks of being free of it's chains.

As Summer quickly approaches, I have become insanely busy over the last few weeks. I was in Yerevan for this weekend to work on the curriculum of the computer camps that some of the PCVs are going to offer this year, and we had what you would call a 'working lunch' and 'working dinner' at 2 restaurants. I had and amazing, out-of-this-world ceaser salad at the first restaurant, complete with real dressing and spinach. I could have eaten 5 of them, but they were a bit on the pricey side. Over this first meal, we worked out budgets and basic information. Then we moved on to Champion's Sports Bar, so we could use their free wifi, and worked for a few more hours on our plans. Oh, and I ate some fantastic spring rolls. yum!

Friday night, a bunch of us went out dancing, it was really a great time. It was nice to hang out with volunteers that I don't usually see. We got home late, and I slept until 10 on Saturday morning. I would have slept longer, but David decided it was time to get up, and ripped to covers away.

On Saturday, we started our meeting off ordering some burritos and nachos from Taco Maco, and new Mexican place that just opened up. We all love it because it is cheap and authentic. We split into 2 groups to work on our specific curriculum. We decided to focus on 2 main topics: Photoshop and Web design. Since I really don't know much about either, I worked with the Web design group and helped them with making their curriculum kid friendly but adding in games, etc. In the end, we have our curriculum complete, and even have a rough schedule for all of the camps laid out. The meetings were far more productive then I ever imagined they would be.

On Saturday, a few of us went to Sevan for the night. Boy oh boy, is it cold there. Beautiful, yes, but cold! There was still a significant amount of ice on the ground, which we haven't seen for a while in Dilijan. It still amazes me how close we can be, but with a climate so completely different. Sunday morning Hayley (another PCV) made us crepes with blackberry syrup. I could have eaten 8 of them. It was so delicious. The blackberries came frozen, but were so delicious and such a change from all the dried fruit we are having now, that they tasted like heaven. After breakfast, it was time for us to pack up and catch a ride to Dilijan.

As I mentioned before, I am taking a lead in the Green Camps that are happening this year, well, things have been kind of sticky lately (due to funding) and we had a meeting with about 5 other volunteers to work out some details and get everyone on the same page. We talked about the sustainability (or lack thereof) of the current GC program, organizational issues, and PC involvement. After getting all the volunteers on the same page (mostly), a representative of Green Tavush (www.greentavush.org) came and we talked everything out. Let's just say there was some serious chain smoking going on, but we got it all worked out (again, mostly) and plan on having a 2 day meeting in Ijevan next weekend to hammer everything out. Everyone just cross your fingers that we can make it all work out. Green Tavush is a great NGO, and Green Camps are a big part of the fun EE and other PCVs have every summer. Plus, it gets kids from villages interested in environmental issues world wide.

I am excited to announce that on March 21st, my flights to Dubai and Egypt will be officially booked. We will spend 10 days in Egypt, with one day in Dubai on either side of that. If anyone has any tips on places to go or things to see, let me know. Interestingly enough, another PCV has told us to use our Armenian when we are at the markets in Egypt. Apparently, when you speak English you get hounded, and they understand when you really want something or not, which seriously hinders your ability to negotiate! good tip, and one I plan on using!

Oh, and while at the IT meeting, something really interesting came up, and I started to think about it more. I had not realized how much I had changed my actions to fit into the social norms here. Don't worry Mum, it is not like I am waiting hand and foot on men or anything, but I do act far differently then I expected. Before Armenia, I walked down the street with my head up, looking at everyone and everything. Here, I noticed that I walk with my head down a lot of the time, avoiding eye contact with men on the street. That hit me hard, if you had asked me before coming here if that would have been acceptable, I would have answered no, no questions asked. But it is something that snuck up on me, and something I will be working on. Also, in America, if I was walking down a street and saw a group of 4 or 5 teenage boys loitering on the sidewalk, I would have just walked by them. Here, I go into the street or cross to the other side all together. I have never had such a bias against one group of people in my life. While not all Armenian men fit into this category (I have met some great guys), I find myself disliking most men here between 16 and 30. Like I said, not all of them by a long shot, but the majority of those I have interacted with are obnoxious and disrespectful. I don't think they are bad people, but man. I think it has something to do with the fact that most of them are unemployed. Like America (but on a totally different scale) Armenia is facing insanely high unemployment rates. A lot of men go to Russia for work. So these boys sit around all day with nothing to do, nothing. The gender role thing also plays a key role. While most kids here are spoiled (they are the LIFE of the family), boys are often treated like princes, they bring hope for the family in the future. Sisters are expected to take care of their brothers, whether it be getting them a drink or other similar things. Also, blatant staring at girls is accepted here without comment. Groups of men here will literally stare to the point where they crane their necks, and it is regarded as ok. There is a lot that I have had to adjust to here, and this is the one that issue I just can't seem to overcome. Even in the schools or clubs, when an older boy walks in, his word rules. All decisions will refer back to him (especially over me, the young female teacher) and he is loved and respected by everyone around him (including other teachers). It is insane, and hard sometimes for me to overcome in my classes.

I don't really know where I want to go with all of this, but it is something that I wanted to share. Now, I am going to go eat. My host mother is made my favorite soup (chicken and rice) and I am going to eat one big, hefty bowl of it. With bread. yumm!

Aunt Carol-Ann and Carolyn : HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!