Friday, December 25, 2009

Merry Christmas!!!

I am home, enjoying it, and hope you have some amazing holidays!

Thursday, December 24, 2009

I am at the airport!!

Well..the day is finally here, at least in Armenia! I am sitting at the airport gate just counting down the minutes until my plane leaves for Paris. I have an 1 1/2 layover there, and then will be settling in for a nice 11 hour ride to Boston, where Mum and Danny P are meeting me! I am so excited I can barely contain myself, not really looking forward to the very long flights though. Countdown 16.5 hours until I land in Boston!

Can't wait to see you all tonight!

Monday, December 21, 2009

oh, a little sidebar..

when we were in the butcher shop, purchasing the meat for the baked ziti, the man picked up a piece that looked rather heart-like. I inquired to my friend if he agreed, and he said no. Only later did I find out that it was in fact a heart (and some other, unidentifiable organs) that the man ground up for us, my friend purchased, and that I unknowingly and thoroughly mixed into the fantastic homemade pasta sauce and delicious ziti. Thank you sir.

Oh, and the kicker, guess what leftovers we ate for lunch today?



next time we are going vegetarian...........................

a little bit more of my life, before I head home for vacation...

This weekend started out pretty fantastically. On Saturday, a friend of mine came to visit and cooked an Italian dinner for my family. We made baked ziti and garlic bread, from scratch(ish). Thanks Mum for the inspiration! It was a hit, and that is putting it pretty mildly. Not only did the entire family go for seconds, but that included my brother, Samson. He is not big on trying new foods, and he doesn't eat very much. When I saw him scoop a second heaping spoonful of ziti onto his plate, I really almost cried. I also knew that the meal was a big success because no normal hatz (bread) was placed on the table. Bread is on the table at every meal, every single meal...and this is the first time they haven't added it! Everyone was satisfied with the garlic bread that we had made. We had left over wine and vodka from Samson's party as well, so we had an amazing time eating, toasting, and talking (mostly in Armenian) to one another.

That night, after dinner, we played another round of Old Maid. While that might sound a bit mundane, or boring, what you don't know is that when someone loses, another player gets to draw on their face with eye liner. That right there ups the ante. We had only played a couple of hands (I had yet to be drawn on, but that didn't last) when some family friends came, and ended up sitting down and playing with us. Everyone was in an extremely good mood, and there was for sure some serious cheating (ooops..I mean hinting) going on! We put on some music, relaxed, and I don't think we stopped playing until one in the morning, when it was decided that it was time for bed!

The next day was just as fun. We went for a little walk and found the Rotunda in Dilijan. It is an old columned structure that they used in the soviet times for hosting parties. It is really, really run down now, but it was fun to walk around in the ruins. We came home to find a 'young people' party going on at the house for Samson. All of the neighborhood kids (when I say kids, I mean 16 to 23 year olds) and some of the cousins were here. We danced for a little, said a couple of toasts, and then the games started.

The first game we played was musical chairs, I know, sounds boring, but it was hilarious. After, we played a short lived game of duck, duck, goose that got a little out of hand in a very small space. I was then inspired to try and do a group sit. Turned out to be not such a great idea. While we had a great time falling on our behinds 5 or 6 times, we never did quite get the point. Oh well. My two favorite games came next.

The game involved 2 back to back chairs. A person sits and covers their eyes, while another points to different people in the room. The person sitting says 'yes' or 'no' to a person, and when they say yes..the picked person sits. The third person claps..and both people must turn their head. If they both face the same direction, you need to kiss each other on the cheek. Different directions, you slap one another. There was for sure some scheming and plotting going on during that one!

The second game was kind of like Marco Polo but without all the required talking. You basically blindfolded a person and they had to find and grab someone else in the room, then say who they thought it was. We were climbing on furniture, throwing pillows, and tackling each other to the floor. At one point I even crawled under a table.

While most of these games sound childish and corny, I actually had an amazing time playing them. It made me sad to realize that most people who have hit my age have stopped running around and playing stupid games (I lucked out as a counselor and ropes course facilitator!). The people that I was playing with were great, and despite the language barrier, that still does exist, I felt like just horsing around with my brother and sister brought us closer together.

When the kid's party was finished, some of my extended host family began to arrive to help us set up for Samson's last dinner at home before leaving for the army. Despite the event surrounding the dinner, everyone really was staying positive and having a good time. My host mum made dolma (mmm!)and there were leftover pastries for dessert. I must admit, I imbibed quite a bit during this dinner. I took advantage of the fact that I was American to skip the wine that the rest of the ladies were drinking (not a fan) and opted instead for the vodka that all the manly men were drinking! While I am pretty sure some of the older women there (read: I heard one lady mention to my host mother that I was drinking..dum dum dum)thought my drinking was a little amot (shameful) everyone else got a kick out of it. The men thought it was hilarious that I was drinking the vodka with them, and when things died down I had a great time drinking with Samson, Lilit, and my friend. There were lots of laughs going on throughout the entire dinner. At one point, two of my Armenian cousins said they were coming to America with me, and I think everyone was pretty impressed when I asked if they would be coming in my bag! Following Armenian protocol, we had to say a toast for every drink that we took. We toasted Samson, his health, and his time in the Army, but near the end we were running out of options. We ended up toast for the world, the vodka, and finally just 'us'. It was fantastic.

Unfortunately though, all of this celebration was in honor of an event that no one was looking forward to. This morning at 9am, we brought Samson to the main area of the town to meet with other young men that would be joining the Army today. Around 11, after lots of kisses and hugs, 8 young men got into a marshutney and drove away. They will serve in the Army for 2 years, with one 10 day vacation after 8 months in. I think I am done talking about it here though, volunteer blogs here are monitored by not only news agencies, but also the US embassy. I have lots to say, but my mother's empathy for others and my father's crazy temper mean that what I really think wouldn't go over to well. Ask me about it when you see me while I'm home.

Oh, 3 days...

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Samson's Army Party

Well...after months of anticipation and weeks of preparation, Samson's party finally happened on the 15th. In the week ahead my mother began to acquire food and cleaning like a women possessed. A few days before, nuts were shelled and mixed, chicken cleaned, and vegetables cut. The day before, the day was spent baking all sorts of pastries (more then I have ever seen, actually) and making salads. My grandmother's sister and her granddaughter arrived a few days ahead of time, and when the big day arrived, other members of the family were at the house at 10 am to start everything rolling. It was family effort to get all of the tables set up (although mostly men) and an equally big effort to get the tables set (although mostly women). My small living room was lined with tables, with a small space left in the middle for the dancing that was sure to happen. We set the tables for around 60 people..although more plates were squeezed in as people arrived. The men took charge of setting up the horavats, and they cooked the chicken and cutlet that the women had prepped in the previous days.

Around 5 people began pouring in, and when it appeared that no one else could fit into my house, everyone began to pile into the living room and find seats and plates. Of course, along Armenian tradition, all of the men sat grouped together (to facilitate that great amount of toasting that would take place) and the women sat grouped together (to facilitate the great amount of gossiping that would take place). While most of the food was already placed on the very full tables, the horavats was brought in and staked on top of other food because there was simply no room left on the tables.

Within the first 5 minutes of sitting, vodka and wine were poured, and the toasts began. As a woman, I went a bit against the grain (oops) and poured myself vodka instead of wine. I don't think anyone really noticed though, they were all toasting for the person of the hour (or hours, really) my brother Samson. Toasts were given to his health, his time in the army, his mother and father, his family, and whatever anyone else could possibly think of. In case you were wondering, there were lots of repeats as well.

Unlike in America, when everyone was finished eating though, the food was not cleared. It stays on the table to snack on while people continue to talk and drink, and in our case, dance. The young kids took the initiative on this one. Large speakers appeared and music was blasted. The kids danced in a normal Armenian style, with the music occasionally shut off to accommodate another toast or two or three. Around this time, another round of food was brought out to re energize everyone. And, in case you were wondering, I did dance. It took one or two shots of vodka, but with lots of encouragement, I danced all Armenian along with the rest of them. There are pictures to prove it. Armenian dancing involves very little hip movement, and lots of arm and leg movement. You basically put your hands in the air and move your wrists and hands all around while moving your legs to the rhythm of the music. It is pretty amazing how quickly some of the Armenian's can move!

Around midnight, most of the guests began to file out, and the group of young kids, my tatik, host mum, and one drunken son-in-law was left at the table. Oops..just called by my family to have some coffee..so I am going to wrap this up for you quick. The drunken man was trying to talk to me in a mix of Russian and some crazy Armenian barbar (slang), and that left my very drunk brother to translate for me into Armenian that I would understand. The situation had me laughing to the point of tears. Cognac had come out at that time, and the man decided to toast me. The toast lasted about 20 minutes, with several class clinkings happening. He essentially wished a happy marriage and 5 children on me. yup. 5 kids. I made a face and quickly took another shot of cognac, my reaction had the rest of the table laughing, but I don't think the man got it!

Well..I am on my third 'ari' (come!) call from the kitchen, best get going!

7 days!

Sunday, December 13, 2009

Satisfaction...

Well...as you know. I have not been up to much lately (work wise) and that had me pretty down. I started to question why I was here, was I really accomplishing anything? Would I even make a difference over the next 20 months? Today though, my family talked to a married couple that they hosted as Peace Corps volunteers over 3 years ago, and it was incredible. The wife still understood Armenian, and my family was so happy to see them and to speak to them. Watching them talk and be so happy to see one another, I realized that I was forgetting two of the Peace Corps goals as I worked through my doubts. One, introducing American culture to Armenian people, and two, introducing Armenian culture to Americans. Yes, maybe I am lagging a bit in the 3rd goal (passing on skills)..but my closeness with my family, neighbors, and club children here made me realize that I am still working, every day. Working on adapting myself to the customs here, and slowly making strange American customs and beliefs maybe not so strange. The kids no longer thing of me as the new, strange American (well..maybe when I do things like stand on chairs, or walk around without slippers) and my family has experienced a very American Thanksgiving along with many new meals (asian, tex mex, etc), heard about many traditions, and have become accustomed the the different ways of an American woman.


As for the passing on of Armenian Culture to Americans..I know my friends and family have heard many stories about parties, dances, and the customs of Armenia. Hopefully more will be passed on during my visit home in 10 days..and more during my next 20 months here.




oh..and while I am here...10 DAYS!

I just ate...

some type of pig internal organ. When I asked what the mystery meat at lunch today was, I was told it was either the pig's heart, liver, or some other organ. Yay. Fantastic. I told them next time just to stop at pig meat and leave out the details.

Counting Down...

and not to what you are thinking either. Well, that to, but more importantly..my brother's 18th birthday/Army Party and 21st departure to a still unknown Army base for training. Planning and preparations are in full swing here, and I was informed today that we are expecting upwards of 60 guests. It is going to be crazy. My host Mum spent a long day making pastries yesterday, and a few days before cleaning and rearranging to make room for such a large number of people in a relatively small house. I still don't know where they are all going to fit!

Over the last week or so, daily trips are made to the khanut to stockpile food (example: 20 sticks of butter) for all the food that is going to be made. Yesterday, neighborhood ladies joined in the effort cleaning chicken bits while sitting around the vararan (wood stove) and gossiping. Today was shower day..with my host Mum doing her hair and everyone getting all 'pretty' for the big day coming up on Tuesday. Our first guests also arrived today. My tat's sister, and her grand-daughter. They are helping with all the preparations.

While we are all excited for the party, there is a crazy sad undertone that the whole ordeal has. After the party, my brother only has 6 more days in the comforts of home before he leaves for 2 years. My mother has been 'not good' for days and days..and now you can feel the sadness throughout the whole house. My normally upbeat and happy family is going to fall apart for the holidays this year..and I feel completely helpless to change it.

I'll give you the rundown on how the Army system works. All men are required to serve 2 years in the Army. After completing high school, all students (girls and boys) take a test. The test determines whether or not the government will pay for you to go to University, or if your family will have to foot the bill. Guys that score high enough on the test to go to school for free serve their 2 years after they complete their 4 year University education. Guys that don't score high enough go through normally two years of school, leave for the Army for 2 years, and then come back and return to University like they never left. It is a little insane to imagine. My brother left school last week, and 2 years later he will go back around the same time (in the middle of a semester) and jump into the same classes like he never left. It will be an interesting transition.

Oh, so the countdown, only 8 days until he leaves. We still have no idea where he is going either. My host mother says that it is unlikely he will stay in our marz (too close to home) and he could be placed anywhere in Armenia, including Karabach (the land that Armenia and Azerbaijan are currently at war over).

This may sound horrible, but I am very happy to be going home for the Holidays this year. I think it is going to be better for everyone. I am not sure I am in an emotional place that I could handle a depressing Holiday season, and I think my host mum, dad, sister, and tateak are going to need some time to deal with my host brother leaving. Time where they don't have to worry about how they act in front of their American. They say I am their daughter, 'their' Katie, but I really think they will need time to cope alone as a family. Like my mum says, everything happens for a reason' and I am glad that I made the decision (or more accurately convinced my Mum to make the decision) to come home for the holidays this year.

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

15 days...

a big deal..so I had to write about it. I absolutely cannot wait to see all of you when I get home, in 15 days. Did I mention only 15 days? Know what that is? 2 weeks and 1 measly day. And for me, that day is pretty much over, so lets just trim the fat and say 2 weeks. The weather is even cooperating with me, it is all snowy and Christmassy outside! Good stuff. Today, I gathered all of the gifts and assorted things that I absolutely needed to bring home. I thought it would be too soon to go further and actually start packing. Oh boy..15 days.

Thankfully, I am still teaching the teachers at the Art School English 2 or 3 times a week, plus I have my Armenian lessons 4 times a week..so I am not going to crazy yet. I think I am going to start my last knitting project tonight. I am branching out and making a hat. We will see how that goes down.

While I am counting down the days, my host mum is wanting the days to drag. Her son, Samson, will be turning 18 on December 15th. Then, on December 24th..he is heading into the Army for 2 years. She is not very happy about it. Following tradition, on the 15th we will be hosting an absolutely gigantic party. We volunteers refer to such parties as 'army parties' and they are notorious for being huge and lots of fun. My host mum has already started cooking food, and is slowly accumulating food in quantities that I could have never imagined. I have already been told that I will have all the work I ever wanted the day before and day of the party. It is going to be a good time.

On Monday (the day before the party) I am going into Yerevan for some last minute Christmas shopping and to have my stupid cavity filled. I am hoping that it will be all set the next day because my host mum bakes a fantastic cake, and I don't want to miss out on it.

Well...I am cold, and my cord wont stretch any closer to the heater..so just remember 15 DAYS!! mhmm!

miss you and love you!

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

An Unwanted Vacation

Well..got the news late last night that all schools in Armenia will be closed until the 21st due to seasonal flu. Sunchild, the NGO I work for, also canceled all of it's programs until then. This means that I have very little work to do. I can plan some of my lessons at home, and will teach the Art School teachers once or twice a week, but other then that...nothing. Pray for me. I am going to be bored out of my mind in the 3 weeks leading up to going home..not really a great combination.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Karenis Getaway

Well, I just got back a couple of hours ago from Karenis. I was there for 2 days to spend time with my old family before the holidays, and it was amazing. I didn't realize how much I missed them all!

I got to the house around 6 on Saturday. It was my first time taking the Yerevan bus, then getting off in Charentsavan and finding a taxi willing to travel the obnoxious road to Karenis. I was very happy that it went smoothly, and the cab driver knew my host dad which meant a discount for me!

When I walked into the house I dropped my stuff and went into the living room to say hi to everyone. My host brother had just come back from vacation in Egypt that day, and the women of the family (with the exception of my mother) were preparing for a welcome back dinner. The pictures were amazing, and everyone was in a great mood.

I gave everyone their gifts from my mum and Donna, and they were a big hit. Monay loved the skirt (it is going to be a part of her New Year outfit), Mariam made a bracelet right away, and the kids (along with a couple of my brothers) loved coloring the stuffed animals. At one point, the 4 (almost 5) and 2 year old were both handing me markers telling me where to color on their respective animals. I have some pretty amazing pictures of some pretty colorful hands, faces, and tounges that resulted. It was a good time.

Dinner was interesting. Pickled pig's feet were the big number of the night, but I settled (much to my host sister's disappointment)on some of the pasta I had helped to make, when I jumped all over the dough to knead it a few months ago. It was early to bed for everyone that night.

The next day was great, we ate a late brunch, and then I walked down with the kids to the ruined church in the gorge. We had a great time getting the 2 year old up and down the steep hills, but it was worth it. We all lit some candles, made wishes, and then we found some ice to skate on. Don't worry, it was a puddle! Hopefully I will get the pictures up sometime this week.

The rest of the day was mostly just hanging out and relaxing with my family. They are all fantastic, and the family is very fun to be around. Got up early this morning and caught the bus to Yerevan for my dentist appointment, I was sad to go..but left with gifts for the family (in America), some homemade pasta, and a big bag of some beautiful apples.

The dentist appointment put a bit of a downer on the day though. I have my first cavity, ever. I was not impressed. It is a little guy, and I am going to have it filled next Monday. I am not looking forward to having a shot in my face, or a numb mouth for hours. LAME. I came home to Dilijan without any issues. Then quickly announced to my family (after looking up the word for cavity in my handy dictionary), that I would no longer be eating anything sweet.

Oh! and we had our second snow in Dilijan today, I am in a better place mentally..and am really enjoying it!



16 days and counting...

Friday, December 4, 2009

A fantastic day I want to tell you about...

Well...today was an absolutely amazing day...and I thought that I should share.

This morning I got up and went (by bus) to my tutor's apartment. We were supposed to have a class but ended up eating borsht, drinking coffee, and just chitchatting. It was great. We have both been really busy, and that was the first time that we have just hung out together for more than a few minutes. I needed it.

Around 2, I took the bus back to my end of town and went to the Art School to teach an English lesson to the Sunchild Kids. Five showed up, and the class went very well...at least in my opinion. We reviewed the basics today. Basically, I was checking their pronunciation and speaking schools. Because of the rote memorization practices of the schools in Armenia (and all post-soviet countries) the children have a huge English vocabulary, and know how to technically use it..but cannot actually speak it and have a conversation. I had a whole lot of games and speaking activities for them to do. They were pretty quiet and shy at first, but once they warmed up..it was amazing. I used a lot of visuals, which I learn way better with..and had them writing or speaking for the whole class. My favorite was the 'run and touch' game I used as a review. I stole it from one of my PST teachers. I wrote a bunch of words in English randomly on the board, then split the class in 2 groups and lined them up. I would say the word in Armenian, and the first kid in each line had to run up and touch the equivalent English word. I had heard from other volunteers that they love competitive games, and they really did have a good time with it.

We finished up class after about an hour. Some of the kid's caught the bus home, but a few stayed to make some more recycled paper. I showed them how to make it colored (by adding paint or colored paper) and they were having fun with it. I had my laptop there, and so they chose to listen to some Shakira. Some of the girls were dancing around, and it was just a really fun atmosphere.

Left for home around 5, and when I got home went online to check my email. My host Mum has been using my account (and typing skills) to email back in forth with her Aunt (Netherlands) and her sister (Russia). She hadn't seen her aunt in 12 years, and today her Aunt emailed me her Skype information. Not 5 seconds after I added her to my contacts, my host Mum and her were seeing each other over a video phone call. Both of them were incredibly happy. Asking each other all sorts of questions, and twisting around the cameras (or laptops) in my case to see each others kids. It was amazing to watch. I am having a hard time not seeing my family or friends for 7 months, never mind 12 years. It made me feel good to see my family so happy.

Well..I have some homework to do for tomorrow, so off I go. Only 20 more days (well, closer to 19 for me) and I cannot wait to see you all!

Miss and love you!

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

ahhh...finally...

"I have the internet, I have the internet, I have the internet hey hey hey hey" is on repeat in my head. In fact, I am quite sure I am doing a little dancing to the tune. I have the internet ladies and gentlemen. In my house. Yea, the internet in my house. I am happy, beyond happy. I would even go so far as ecstatic. I am that happy. It is unbelivable. Went down with my host mum today (you need an Armenian passport to sign up for post-paid, unlimited plans) and signed up. Holy moly...I have the internet in my house. Yes, it may be 12000 dram (30 bucks) a month, but oh boy, will it cut down on my phone card expenses. Not only can I use Skype (which I am downloading as we speak) to talk to everyone in country, but I can also use it to call America unlimited for only about 6 dollars a month. That, my friends, will save me hundreds of dollars while I am here. I am excited like you couldn't believe. I will also no longer have to pay crazy amounts of money for internet cafes anymore, can upload all my pictures for a whole lot less then a small fortune. ahh...I am beyond excited.

Other things that I think you should know:

-This week we are making recycled paper with the Sunchild Eco-Club. The kids love doing it, and it is fun and easy to do. Good times.

-Also working on preparing a play version of 'Little Red Riding Hood' with the kids for a party we have coming up to end the year. I found a book and CD in English in Yerevan. It will be fun.

-I start English lessons with the Art School teachers tomorrow. It will help with my Armenian, and thier English will get better...we both need it.

-I am going to hopefully start doing an 'environmental art' program at the preschool in Dilijan, cross your fingers for me, I really want to.

-I also might start helping the English teachers at one of the schools with their classes, and I am going to try and start doing some type of program at one of the youth clubs in town.

-I came home to my mum making stuffing again, I brought stuffing to Armenia, my work here is done! haha...I love it! I don't think the peanut butter was a big hit though, oh well...more for me!



oh..and I am going to visit my old host family soon...I cannot wait to see them again!!

24 DAYS AND COUNTING!!




mum, thank you for the package, it was amazing...worth the wait!